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Where to Put a Hot Water Unit on a Period-Home Block

Where to put a new hot water unit on an inner-east block: clearances, short pipe runs, access, heritage visibility, and tight courtyards versus big blocks.

By the Toorak Plumbers teamPublished 12 July 2026

Hot water unit beside a plumbing service van

Where the unit goes is a design decision

On inner-east blocks the spot a hot water unit lives in is not an afterthought. The right position gives you faster hot water, an easier service job every few years, and a unit that stays out of sight where it should. The wrong one, usually chosen in a hurry on the day the old unit failed, leaves you with a slow tap at the far end of the house, an awkward repair when the time comes, or a bulky box that a heritage streetscape would rather not see.

We plumb across Toorak, Armadale, Malvern, Prahran, South Yarra and Kooyong, and the housing is anything but uniform. Tight Victorian terraces with narrow side returns and small courtyards sit a few streets from large garden blocks. That mix means there is rarely a single right answer, so we walk the property first, weigh the options, and give a fixed quote before any work starts. Planning the position ahead of a failure almost always beats deciding under pressure with no hot water in the house.

Clearance and compliance come first

Placement is not a free choice, which is why this is a design conversation rather than a like-for-like swap. Gas units need flue and clearance distances from windows, doors, combustible surfaces and boundaries. Every unit’s temperature and pressure relief valve needs a safe drain point, and tray-mounted or internal installations need a safe tray plumbed to drain. Heat pumps need clear airflow around the evaporator and a thought for noise, because a unit running overnight close to a neighbour’s bedroom window is a complaint waiting to happen.

These requirements come from the plumbing standards and the manufacturer’s instructions, and a licensed plumber has to satisfy all of them. So the tidy spot you had in mind may need pipework or drainage changes to make it compliant, and occasionally it rules a position out altogether. Hot water and gas work is licensed in Victoria, so whoever does yours should be licensed and hand over the compliance paperwork for the job.

Keep the pipe run short

The distance between the unit and the taps you use most matters more than people expect. A long run means a longer wait for hot water at the tap, more water down the drain while you wait, and more heat lost through the pipe wall on every draw. Bringing the unit closer to the kitchen and main bathroom, or at least shortening the run to them, is one of the simplest ways to improve day-to-day performance.

On a large garden block in Kooyong or Malvern there can be a temptation to tuck the unit well away from the house where it is out of the way. That is fine for looks, but it lengthens the pipe run, so we weigh the visual gain against slower hot water and higher standing heat loss. On a compact terrace the opposite problem appears: the only clear wall may sit a long way from the bathroom, and a slimmer or continuous-flow unit placed closer can solve it.

Heritage overlays and what the street sees

Much of the inner east sits under heritage overlays, and Toorak in particular has streetscapes where external plant is expected to stay discreet. A hot water unit fixed to a front-facing wall where it is visible from the street can be a problem in a heritage area, and in some cases may need council consideration. It is worth checking before you commit to a position, not after the unit is bolted up.

The practical answer is usually to keep the unit to a side or rear wall, behind a fence line or in a side return, out of the sightline from the street while still meeting its clearances. A slimmer tank or a wall-mounted continuous-flow unit is often easier to place discreetly than a wide storage tank, which is one more reason the choice of system and the choice of position are best made together.

Terraces, courtyards and big blocks

The block itself usually points to the answer, so when we plan a placement we start with what you actually have to work with.

  • Tight terraces and flats: narrow side returns, small courtyards and light wells can rule out a like-for-like storage tank, so a slimmer tank or a wall-mounted continuous-flow unit often fits the space, and the clearances, more easily
  • Larger garden blocks in Kooyong or Malvern: there is room to choose, so we balance a discreet, well-screened position against keeping the pipe run to the main taps sensible
  • Service access: wherever the unit lands, leave room to work, because a unit boxed in behind a shed or a new deck turns a routine anode check or valve replacement into a slow, awkward job
  • Future changes: if you might move to a heat pump or switch fuel later, a position with power, airflow and drainage nearby saves a bigger rework down the track

Common questions

Can my new unit go in a different spot than the old one?

Usually, yes. Relocating a unit adds some pipework, and the new position still has to meet the clearance, flue and drainage requirements, which we confirm on site. At changeover the extra cost is modest next to years of easier access and, often, faster hot water.

Does council care where I put a hot water unit in a heritage area?

It can. In heritage-overlay streets, common in Toorak, an external unit visible from the street may need council consideration. Keeping it to a side or rear wall, out of the sightline, usually avoids the issue, but it is worth checking before you commit to a position.

My courtyard is tiny. What are my options?

Small courtyards, light wells and narrow side returns often cannot take a like-for-like storage tank. A slimmer tank or a wall-mounted continuous-flow unit takes up less room and is easier to fit within the required clearances, which is why we look at the system and the position together.

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